淮鹽荔枝米俐

宋代吳淑所作《茶賦》規模更有擴展，歷數茶之功效、典故和茶中珍品:

　　夫其滌煩療渴。換骨輕身。茶荈之利。其功若神。則有渠江薄片。西山白露。雲垂綠腳。香浮碧乳。挹此霜華。卻茲煩暑。清文既傅于讀杜育。精思亦聞 于陸羽。若夫擷此皋盧。烹茲苦茶。桐君之録尤重。仙人之掌難逾。豫章之嘉甘露。王肅之貪酪奴。待槍旗而採摘。對鼎以吹噓。則有療彼斛瘕。困茲水厄。擢彼陰林。得于爛石。先火而造。乘雷以摘。吳主之憂韋曜。初沐殊恩。陸納之待謝安。誠彰儉德。別有產於玉。造彼金沙。三等為號。五出成花。早春之來賓化。橫 紋之出陽坡。複聞湖含膏之作。龍安騎火之名。柏岩兮鶴嶺。鳩坑兮西亭。嘉雀舌之纖嫩。玩蟬翼之輕盈。冬芽早秀。麥顆先成。或重四園之價。或侔團月之形。並明目而益思。豈瘠氣而侵精。又有蜀岡牛嶺。洪雅烏程。碧澗紀號。紫筍為稱。陟仙厓而花墜。服丹丘而翼生。至於飛自獄中。煎於竹裏。效在不眠。功存悅志。 或言詩為報。或以錢見遺。複雲葉如梔子。花若薔薇。輕飆浮雲之美。霜竹籜之差。唯芳茗之為用。蓋飲食之所資。

　　另外，在唐代出現的一種類於"俗賦"的文學體裁"變文"中，有一篇著名的《茶酒論》，記敍了茶葉和酒各自誇耀，論辯不休，最後由水出來調停這樣一個內容。全文以一問一答的方式，並且都用韻，也有對仗。讀來饒有趣味:

　　竊見神農曾嘗百草，五穀從此得分。軒轅制其衣服，流傳教示後人。倉頡致(制)其文字，孔丘闡化儒因。不可從頭細說，撮其樞要之陳。暫問茶之與酒，兩個誰有功勳?阿誰即合卑小，阿誰即合稱尊?今日各須立理，強者先(光)飾一門。

　　茶乃出來言曰: "諸人莫鬧，聽說些些。百草之首，萬木之花。貴之取蕊，重之摘芽。呼之茗草，號之作茶。貢五侯宅，奉帝王家。時新獻入，一世榮華。自然尊貴，何用論誇!"

　　酒乃出來:"可笑詞說!自古至今，茶賤酒貴。單(簞)醪投河，三軍告醉。君王飲之，叫呼萬歲，群臣飲之，賜卿無畏。和死定生，神明歆氣。酒食向人，終無惡意。有酒有令，仁義禮智。自合稱尊，何勞比類!"

　　茶為酒曰:"阿你不聞道:浮梁歙州，萬國來求。蜀川(山)流(蒙)頂，其(登)山驀嶺。舒城太湖，買婢買奴。越郡余杭，金帛為囊。素紫天子，人間亦少。商客來求，舡車塞紹。據此蹤由，阿誰合少?"

　　酒為茶曰: "阿你不聞道，劑(齊)酒幹和，博錦博羅。蒲桃九醞，於身有潤。玉酒瓊漿，仙人杯觴。菊花竹葉，君王交接。中山趙母，甘甜美苦。一醉三年，流傳今古。禮讓鄉閭，調和軍府。阿你頭惱(腦)，不須幹努。"

　　茶為酒曰: "我之茗草，萬木之心。或白如玉，或似黃金。名僧大德，幽隱禪林。飲之語話，能去昏沉。供養彌勒，奉獻觀音。千劫萬劫，諸佛相欽。酒能破家散宅，廣作邪淫。打卻三盞已(以)後，令人只是罪深。"

　　酒為茶曰: "三文一缸，何年得富?酒通貴人，公卿所慕。曾道(遣)趙主彈琴，秦王擊缶。不可把茶請歌，不可為茶交(教)舞。茶吃只是腰疼，多吃令人患肚。一日打卻十杯，腸脹又同衙鼓。若也服之三年，養蝦蟆得水病報。"

　　茶為酒曰: "我三十成名，束帶巾櫛。驀海其(騎)江，來朝今(金)室。將到市廛，安排未畢。人來買之，錢財盈溢。言下便得富饒，不在明朝後日。阿你酒能昏亂，吃了多饒啾唧。街中羅織平人，脊上少須十七。"

　　酒為茶曰:"豈不見古人才子，吟詩盡道:渴來一盞，能養性命。又道:酒是消愁藥。又道:酒能養賢。古人糟粕，今乃流傳。茶賤三文五碗，酒賤盅半七文。致酒謝坐，禮讓周旋。國家音樂，本為酒泉。終朝吃你茶水，敢動些些管弦!"

　　茶為酒曰:"阿你不見道:男兒十四五，莫與酒家親。君不見生生(狌狌)鳥，為酒喪其身。阿你即道:茶吃發病，酒吃養賢。即見道有酒黃酒病，不見 道有茶瘋茶癲。阿闍世王為酒煞父害母，劉零為酒一死三年。吃了張眉豎眼，怒鬥宣拳。狀上只言粗豪酒醉，不曾有茶醉相言。不免求(囚)首杖子，本典索錢。 大枷()項，背上拋椽。便即燒香斷酒，念佛求天，終生不吃，望免迍。"

　　兩個政爭人我，不知水在旁邊。

　　水為茶酒曰:"阿你兩個，何用忿忿?阿誰許你，各擬論功!言詞相毀，道西說東。人生四大，地水火風。茶不得水，作何相貌?酒不得水，作甚形容? 米曲幹吃，損人腸胃。茶片幹吃，只糲(礪)破喉嚨。萬物須水，五穀之宗。上應幹象，下順吉凶。江河淮濟，有我即通。亦能漂蕩天地，亦能涸煞魚龍。堯時九年災跡，只緣我在其中。感得天下欽奉，萬姓依從。由(猶)自不說能聖，兩個何用爭功?從今已(以)後，切須和同。酒讓發富，茶坊不窮。長為兄弟，須得始終。若人讀之一本，永世不害酒癲茶風(瘋)。"

　　宋代文學家黃庭堅，也善辭賦，他的《煎茶賦》善用典故，寫盡茶葉的功效和煎茶的技藝:

　　洶洶乎如澗松之發清吹，皓皓乎如春空之行白雲。賓主欲眠而同味，水茗相投而不渾。苦口利病，解滌昏，未嘗一日不放箸。而策茗椀之勳者也。餘嘗 為嗣真瀹茗，因其滌煩破睡之功，為之甲乙。建溪如割，雙井如撻，日鑄如，其餘苦則辛螫，甘則底滯。嘔酸寒胃，令人失睡，亦未足與議。或曰無甚高論，敢問其次。涪翁曰：味江之羅山，嚴道之蒙頂。黔陽之都濡高株，滬州之納溪梅嶺，夷陵之壓磚。臨邛之火井。不得已而去於三，則六者亦可酌兔褐之甌，瀹魚眼之鼎 者也。或者又曰：寒中瘠氣，莫甚於茶。或濟之鹽，勾賤破家，滑竅走水，又況雞蘇之與胡麻。涪翁於是酌岐雷之醪醴，參伊聖之湯液。斮附子如博投，以熬葛仙之堊。去而用鹽，去橘而用薑。不奪茗味，而佐以草石之良，所以固太倉而堅作強。於是有胡桃、松實、庵摩、鴨腳、賀、靡蕪、水蘇、甘菊。既加臭味，亦厚賓 客。前四後四，各用其一。少則美，多則惡，發揮其精神，又益於咀嚼。蓋大匠無可棄之材，太平非一士之略。厥初貪味雋永，速化湯餅。乃至中夜不眠，耿耿既作，溫齊殊可屢歃。如六經，濟三尺法，雖有除治，與人安樂。賓至則煎，去則就榻，不游軒石之華胥，則化莊周之蝴蝶。

　　清代文學家全望祖，作有《十二雷茶灶賦》更是氣勢非凡，描寫浙江四明山區的茶葉盛景，其境界浪漫燦爛，發人遐想:

　　"四明四面兮俱神宮，就中翠謁兮尤清空。大闌峨峨兮稱絕險，蜀岡旁峙兮分半峰。其間剡湖則西兮，藍溪則東峰。回溪轉兮非人世，釀為嫩雪兮茸茸。百七日兮寒食過，廿四番兮花信終。二百八十峰兮土膏動，一萬八千丈兮雲氣濃。時則小草兮珠圓，長條兮玉潔，雙韭兮挺生，三箐兮秀出，青欞兮吐丹，白附兮結 實，插瓏松兮篁竿，纏纓珞兮蘿闕。彼避世之畸人，各分曹以登眺。蓋飽饜而有餘，薄煙火以不道，乃有茶仙經營茶灶。愛茲茶山，煙嵐窈窕。八精籃兮偃息，登古墓兮踟躊。訪舊文兮斷碣，吊高僧兮遺書。彼人代兮已遠，賬宿莽兮成墟。獨新牙兮正茁，幾彌望兮山居。於是擷之掇之。吹之噓之，蒸之焙之，祈之攄之，都籃之 具于以儲之。彼近山之瀑泉，推化安為絕勝。雖然竇之飛湍，拜下風於錦鏡。致陸羽之傳化，喜孫因之可證。來制良材，以慰幽興。……。自元初兮經始，曆明代兮來馳。怪近世之希逢，致消渴其何恃?既塵鞅之可除，竊山棲以有志。《茶經》一卷，茶寮數事，比鄰可睦，那須黃羊活眼，盈甌司命。是嘗媚之不辱，煬之無妨。倘稍存夫本色，為我和以老薑。

　　散文中，宋代蘇軾的《葉嘉傳》和元代楊維楨的《煮茶夢記》比較著名。

　　蘇東坡的散文，向來與唐代的韓愈，柳宗元和同時代的歐陽修相並稱。他的散文善於隨機生髮，翻空出新。《葉嘉傳》以擬人手法，鋪陳茶葉歷史、性狀、功能諸方面的內容，其中情節起伏，對話精彩，讀來有栩栩如生的感受:

　　葉嘉，閩人也，其先處上穀。曾祖茂先，養高不仕，好遊名山。至武夷，悅之，遂家焉。嘗曰：吾植功種德，不為時采，然遺香後世，吾子不必盛於中 士，當飲其惠矣。茂先葬郝源，子孫遂為郝源民。至嘉，少植節操。或勸之業武，曰：吾當為天下英武之精。一槍一旗，豈吾事哉。因而游，見陸先生，先生奇之，為著其行錄，傳於世。方漢帝嗜閱經史時，建安人為謁者侍上。上讀其行錄而善之。曰：吾獨不得與此人同時哉。曰：臣邑人葉嘉，風味恬淡，清白可愛，頗負其 名，有濟世之才，雖羽知猶未詳也。上驚，敕建安太守召嘉，給傳遣詣京師，郡守始令採訪嘉所在。命齎書示之，嘉未就遣。使臣督促，郡守曰：葉先生方閉門制作，研味經史，志圖挺立，必不屑進，未可促之。親至山中，為之勸駕，始行登車。遇相者揖之曰：先生容質異常，矯然有龍鳳之姿，後當大貴。嘉以皂囊上封事， 天子見之曰：吾久飫卿名，但未知其實耳，我其試哉。因顧謂侍臣曰：視嘉容貌如鐵，資質剛勁，難以遽用，必搥提頓挫之乃可。遂以言恐嘉曰：碪斧在前，鼎鑊在後，將以烹子，子視之如何？嘉勃然吐氣曰：臣山藪猥士，幸惟陛下采擇至此，可以利主雖粉身碎骨，臣不辭也。上笑，命以名曹處之，又加樞要之務焉，因誡小黃 門監之。有頃報曰：嘉之所為，猶若粗疎然。上曰：吾知其才，第以獨學，未經師耳。嘉為之屑就師，頃刻就事，已精熟矣。上乃勅禦史歐陽高、金紫光祿大夫鄭當時、甘泉侯陳平三人，與之同事。歐陽嫉嘉初進有寵，曰：吾屬且為之下矣。計欲傾之。會天子禦延英，促召四人。歐但熱中而已，當時以足擊嘉。而平亦以口侵陵 之。嘉雖見侮，為之起立，顏色不變。歐陽悔曰：陛下以葉嘉見托吾輩，亦不可忽之也。因同見帝，陽稱喜美，而陰以輕浮訾之。嘉亦訴於上。上為責歐陽憐嘉，視其顏色久之。曰：葉嘉真清白之士也，其氣飄然若浮雲矣。遂引而宴之。少選間，上鼓舌欣然曰：始吾見嘉，未甚好也。久味之，殊令人愛。朕之精魄，不覺灑然而 醒。書曰：啟乃心，沃朕心，嘉之謂也。於是封嘉為钜合侯，位尚書。曰：尚書，朕喉舌之任也。由是寵愛日加。朝廷賓客，遇會宴享，未始不推於嘉。上日引對，至於再三，後因侍宴苑中，上飲踰度，嘉輒若諫。上不悅曰：卿司朕喉舌，而以苦辭逆我，我豈堪哉。遂唾之。命左右僕於地。嘉正色曰：陛下必欲甘辭利口，然後 愛耶，臣言雖苦，久則有效。陛下亦嘗試之，豈不知乎，上願左右曰：始吾言嘉剛勁難用，今果見矣。因含容之，然亦以是疎嘉。嘉既不得志，退去閩中。既而曰：吾末如之何也已矣。上以不見嘉月餘。勞于萬幾，神思困，頗思嘉，因命召至。喜甚，以手撫嘉曰：吾渴見卿久也，遂恩遇如故。上方欲以兵革為事，而大司農奏 計國用不足，上深患之，以問嘉。嘉為進三策，其一曰：榷天下之利，山海之資，一切籍于縣官。行之一年，財用豐贍，上大悅。兵興有功而還，上利其財，故榷法不罷。管山海之利，自嘉始也。居一年，嘉告老，上曰：钜合侯其忠可謂盡矣。遂得爵其子。又令郡守擇其宗支之良者，每歲貢焉。嘉子二人，長曰摶，有父風，襲 爵。次曰挺，抱黃白之術。比于摶，其志尤淡泊也。嘗散其資，拯鄉閭之困，人皆德之。故鄉人以春伐鼓，大會山中，求之以為常。贊曰：今葉氏散居天下，皆不喜城邑，惟樂山居。氏于閩中者，蓋嘉之苗裔也。天下葉氏雖夥，然風味德馨，為世所貴，皆不及閩。閩之居者又多，而郝源之族為甲。嘉以布衣遇天子，爵徹侯，位 八座，可謂榮矣。然其正色苦諫，竭力許國，不為身計，蓋有以取之。夫先王用於國有節，取於民有制，至於山林川澤之利，一切與民。嘉為策以榷之，雖救一時之急，非先王之舉也。君子譏之，或雲：管山海之利，始於鹽鐵丞孔僅桑弘羊之謀也。嘉之策未行于時，至唐趙贊始舉而用之。

　　蘇軾的《葉嘉傳》是一篇遊戲性質的美文，但其影響卻不小。自此以後出現的"傳"，如元代楊維楨的《清苦先生傳》、明代徐的《茶居士傳》、支中夫的《味苦居士傳》等，從中均可見到蘇軾《葉嘉傳》的寫作手法。

　　元代文學家楊維楨，字廉夫，號鐵崖，浙江會稽(今紹興)人。他的散文《煮茶夢記》充分表現了飲茶人在茶香的薰陶中，恍惚神遊的心境。如仙如道，煙霞璀燦，在他的筆下，飲茶夢境猶如仙境，給人以極大的審美享受。

　　鐵龍道人臥石林。移二更。月微明及紙帳。梅影亦及半窗。鶴孤立不鳴。命小芸童。汲白蓮泉燃槁湘竹。授以淩霄芽為飲供。道人乃游心太虛。雍雍涼涼。若鴻蒙。若皇芒。會天地之未生。適陰陽之若亡。恍兮不知入夢。遂坐清真銀暉之堂。堂上香雲簾拂地。中著紫桂榻。綠璚幾。看太初易一集。集內悉星斗文。 煥煜爚熠。金流玉錯。莫別爻畫。若煙雲日月。交麗乎中天。玉露涼。月冷如冰。入齒者易刻。因作太虛吟。吟曰。道無形兮兆無聲。妙無心兮一以貞。百象斯融兮太虛以清。歌已。光飆起林末。激華氛。鬱鬱霏霏。絢爛淫豔。乃有扈綠衣。若仙子者。徒容來謁。雲名淡香。小字綠花。乃捧太元杯。酌太清神明之醴以壽。予侑 以詞曰。心不行。神不行。無而為。萬化清。壽畢。紓徐而退。複令小玉環侍筆牘。遂書歌遺之曰。道可受兮不可傳。天無形兮四時以言。妙乎天兮天天之先。天天之先複何仙。移間。白雲微消。綠衣化煙。月反明予內間。予亦悟矣。遂冥神合元。月光尚隱隱于梅花間。小芸呼曰。淩霄芽熟矣。

　　此外，明代周履靖的《茶德頌》，張岱的《鬥茶檄》、《閔老子茶》都是不可多得的佳作。

　　在現代散文中，魯迅的《喝茶》和周作人的《喝茶》都是別具一格的美文，由於兩人的思想和生活方式的不同，在散文中出現的"茶味"也是各不相同，均具有濃重的藝術個性。

2003-03-14 11:26

　
　

Perfect smooth Chinese tea is just like good aged wine, no juices can compare or replace it..... 香滑的中國菜,跟陳年舊酒一樣,是沒有任何東西可以代替的.....   Master Leung Ka-Dong has been working at Ying Kee Tea House for almost 40 years. "What type of tea do you usually order when you eat dim sum?" asks Ying Kee Tea House英記茶莊 Master Leung Ka-Dong (梁家棟師傅). "I usually order white hair peony because my family always orders it," I reply. "Did you know that almost all restaurants mix their white teas with black to add flavour and colour?" he says. No, I did not know that. I did not know that it's only in the recent 50 to 60 year s that white, green and pu-erh have become Hong Kong 's most popular teas either. With a richer economy, Hong Kong people stirred away from simple black teas from India and Sri Lanka and began to enjoy tea for various health reasons or collect pu-erh tea like wine. Thanks to Master Leung, who has worked at Ying Kee Tea House since the early 1970s, I now know a little more about how to appreciate Chinese tea. Here are 12 things he told me about tea that no restaurateur would have:  1. Never drink tea on an empty stomach 別空肚喝茶 Always drink tea during or after a meal. Our stomachs are acidic and tea is alkalizing. Acid and alkaline combined have a bloating effect. 酸鹼中和會產生胃漲 2. Drink white tea if you are a smoker 吸煙者喝白茶 White tea is really good for the lungs and throat, so it is especially beneficial for smokers. A cup of white peony tea helps clear all the phlegm in our throats and cures coughs. 白毛牡丹能去痰,潤喉,止咳   3. You won’t be able to tell the quality of white tea by its colour 從顏色不能分別出白茶的品質 Most restaurants mix white peony tea with black tea to add colour and flavour because customers generally prefer tea that tastes richer and looks darker in colour.坊間白牡丹常有紅茶混入以增強色香 Pure white tea itself has hardly any flavour or colour compared to other teas. 4. Only fine dining Chinese restaurants serve screw shaped green tea只有高級食府才供應碧螺春 Genuine screw shaped green tea is the highest grade of green tea and the most expensive. At Ying Kee Tea House, it sells at HK$5,067 per kilogram (HK$380 per 75 gram bag). Produced only in Jiangsu Province Dong Ting Mountain , it’s also the rarest green tea in China , producing only about 1,000 kilograms a year.正宗洞庭碧螺春年產一百公斤,售價每斤五千多港圓。 It must be consumed fresh, within a year after picking the tea leaves. Screw shaped green tea of higher quality is best consumed within six months even. If it is tasteless, solvent or extremely bitter, that means it has already gone bad.此茶要新鮮飲用,久藏失香味苦。 But while it is certainly expensive, screw shaped green tea has a very particular taste that not everyone may like. Even when it is fresh, it tastes more bitter than other teas. For all those reasons, screw shaped green tea is only served at fine dining Chinese restaurants, usually at hotels.  5. Treat pu-erh tea like a digestible detergent to flush all the grease away普洱茶助消化,去油膩,降膽固醇。 Always pair oily food with pu-erh tea. Dim sum, no matter steamed or fried, contains lard. When you eat shrimp dumplings, there is always a piece of fatty pork in there to add flavour and fragrance. Pu-erh tea helps you rinse all the grease from the food out of your system. It aids digestion, blood circulation and lowers cholesterol levels. If you don’t have detergent at home, boil some pu-erh tea and use it to wash your dishes. It’s like a digestible detergent. 普洱茶可代替家用洗潔精。   6. Sweets go best with green tea甜品跟綠茶是最佳配搭。 Sweet food is best paired with tea that is more bitter. Loong cheng green tea helps moderate the sweetness of desserts.龍井能減輕甜品甜度。 Like pu-erh tea, drinking green tea helps lower cholesterol levels and break down fat.和普洱一樣,綠茶亦可去油膩降低膽固醇。 But while most teas are best brewed in boiling hot water, green teas like screw shaped green tea and loong cheng only need to be brewed in water that is about 75 to 85C degrees. If the water is too hot, it will be difficult to maintain the same fragrance in the second brew.泡綠茶水溫不能大沸,應維持在75至85度C之間。   7. Teh kuan yin goes best with spicy food鐵觀音配搭香辣菜式最妙。 Spicy foods are best paired with teh kuan yin because it has a bitter sweet effect. If you ever visit a Chiu Chow restaurant, they always serve teh kuan yin tea with their spicy dishes. 潮州菜館專供鐵觀音(又各溪茶) Plus, Chiu Chow city borders Shantou city and Fujian province, which is known for harvesting teh kuan yin leaves. 8. Fried food goes best with white tea煎炸食物與白茶配搭最宜 Basically, any type of fried or deep fried food goes well with white tea. In Chinese medicinal terms, fried food is considered dry hot.白茶清熱氣 White teas like white hair peony help release body heat.  9. Smell quality外普洱外,其他茶葉都有不同香味。無香味的茶肯定是過期。 Aside from pu-erh tea which is almost odourless, quality tea should always give off a fragrant smell. If you can’t smell the tea or see that it is very solvent, then it has probably expired.   10. You won’t be able to find good pu-erh tea at dim sum restaurants茶樓永遠找不到好的普洱 It is simply not cost-efficient. Pu-erh tea is like wine. The longer you store it, the richer it becomes. Storage for at least three to six years is optimal.普洱像洋酒一樣,越陳年越好。但儲藏普洱對茶樓來講不甚化算(可能陸羽除外) Regular pu-erh teas served at restaurants have generally been modified during the fermentation process to reduce storage time. By doing this, they lose whatever fragrance and flavour they originally had.食肆用的普洱大都是比較新的品種,所以香與味都大打折扣。 Good pu-erh tea should look very smooth and deep red in colour, not black like regular pu-erh tea.好做普洱茶香滑呈琥珀色,不是深褐色。 You can also test the quality of your pu-erh tea by the stain it leaves on your cup after drin king it. If you see a stain surrounding the rim of your cup, that means you are drinking regular or low quality pu-erh tea. If your cup is left with no stain after consumption, you are drinking pu-erh tea of high quality. 上等普洱茶喝清後杯邊不留痕跡。   11. Teh kuan yin, daffodil and oolong are all the same at dim sum restaurants普通茶樓食肆,鐵觀音,水仙及烏龍通常是同一種低級水仙茶 No matter which of the three you order, dim sum restaurants will serve you low grade daffodil tea. All three teas come under the same oolong tea category, yet they are very different in flavour. Teh kuan yin tastes more clear and fragrant. Oolong is stronger and more solvent. And daffodil is the purest of them all.   12. The best moments of tea enjoyment are when you have time最佳品茶時間是你有閒暇去享受的時候 Drinking tea is a matter of mood. And when I talk about mood, it mainly has to do with the condition of time. You’ve probably heard many rules about tea, from water temperature to colour. But at the end of the day, drinking tea is a very personal experience.別理所謂茶經。品茶是一種個人喜好,濃淡皆宜,有暇就好。 Some people like their tea boiling hot while others like theirs lukewarm. Some may like theirs stronger than others. So it’s all about time. We need time to brew that perfect cup of tea. Happy Tea-ing ! Regards, D.W.