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2019年7月1日(一)佛羅倫斯(Florence (英))


前序:佛羅倫斯(義大利語:Firenze,拉丁語:Florentia,義大利詩歌:Fiorenza),又譯佛羅倫斯,在19世紀的中國或者現代文學、藝術、餐飲的場合也常按義大利語發音翻譯成翡冷翠。是義大利中部托斯卡納大區和佛羅倫斯省的首府,擁有366,091名城市人口,是該地區面積最大、人口最多的城市,以及主要的歷史、文化和商業中心。 佛羅倫斯(Florence),在詩人徐志摩的詩集「翡冷翠的一夜」中將這個都市翻譯了一個詩情畫意、更貼切義大利語「Firenze」的名字-翡冷翠。聖母百花教堂、烏菲茲美術館、學院美術館,老橋,這裡處處充滿了文藝復興的建築與畫作,以及滿滿的文藝復興氛圍。


試比較米廣場和領廣場的異同。

























 



米廣場



領廣場



地形



位於高地,開揚廣闊,尤其適合攝影。



位於平地, 面積廣闊,適合欣賞歷史景致,和散步。



購物檔次



小型個體戶,以紀念品為主。



落地玻璃店舖,以皮革、飲食、皮鞋等退稅消費品為主。



風格



以自然景色為主。



以人文歷史景致為主。



 




米開朗基羅廣場
Piazzale Michelangelo


「米開朗基羅廣場」興建於1865年到1871年間,建築師以米開朗基羅作品作為廣場主軸,有同樣大小的「大衛」雕像,還有梅迪奇禮拜堂內的白晝、黑夜、黃昏、黎明的複製品。不論白天或夜晚,米開朗基羅廣場都是一個很適合眺望整個佛羅倫斯市區的好地方



地址: Piazzale Michelangelo 50125 Firenze, Italia



交通: Firenze Santa Maria Novella Station (S.M.N Station) 搭12, 13路公車 (票價2歐) 是佛羅倫斯(翡冷翠)最經典的觀景處,是個可以從高地上俯瞰佛羅倫斯全景的最佳地點。


The Magical Florence Skyline Florence seen from above is a singular experience. Not just a perfect photo opportunity, but a moment of wonder. You are looking at the city that gave birth to incredible artists, amazing scientists and an enthralling history of discovery and power that has filled novels and movie theaters. No matter what time of day, you will find that Piazzale Michelangelo truly offers a stupendous lookout over Florence. Don't be surprised if you also see it written as Piazzale Michelangiolo, this is from the archaic Florentine pronunciation and most definitely the one you see on street signs or the brown and white signs that indicate historic landmarks. In any case, however you spell it, it is one site that should not be missed. It may be a classic tourist stop, but it never fails to capture the heart and imagination of those who follow the path to the very top.



領主廣場 Piazza della Signoria


義大利--佛羅倫斯—領主廣場(Piazza della Signoria) 領主廣場(Piazza della Signoria)是義大利佛羅倫斯舊宮前的「L」形廣場,得名於舊宮(領主宮)。 這裡是佛羅倫斯共和國起源與歷史的焦點,至今仍享有該市政治中心的名聲。這裡是佛羅倫斯人以及眾多遊客的聚會地點。


門口旁的噴水池作品為 Bartolomeo Ammannati 的 海神噴泉 Fountain of Neptune,海神雕像象徵統御上海權威的大謀,不過我更喜歡 羅馬特萊維噴泉 Fontana di Trevi 的海神雕像,更加氣勢磅礡。


舉說海神噴泉前方有塊圓形大理石,就是當初 Savonarola 被處絞刑跟火刑的地方@@ 令人印象深刻的14世紀建築舊宮及其鋸齒形塔樓仍然統治著廣場。


廣場上還有傭兵涼廊、烏菲茲美術館、商人法庭(1359)(今農業局)和烏古其奧尼宮(16世紀,正立面可能出自拉斐爾的手筆)。位於舊宮前面的是文藝復興風格的忠利保險(1871年)。 因為整個廣場充滿著雕像作品,活生生像是個露天的博物館,大家紛紛聚集在廣場上拍照,其中又以門口的大衛像複製品人氣最高!!


Piazza della Signoria


The Piazza della Signoria is top among Florence's most important squares. In the heart of the city, dominated by city hall—the Palazzo Vecchio—and skimmed by one wing of the Uffizi Gallery, the Piazza della Signoria is Florence's primary meeting place for both locals and tourists. Several concerts, fairs, and rallies are held in the Piazza della Signoria throughout the year.


Florence's most famous square started to take shape in the mid- to late 13th century when the Guelphs defeated the Ghibellines for control of the city. The piazza's L shape and the lack of uniformity of its surrounding buildings are the results of the Guelphs leveling many of their rivals' palazzi. The piazza gets its name from the towering Palazzo Vecchio, whose original name is the Palazzo della Signoria.


 


海神噴泉(Fountain of Neptune)


海神噴泉是義大利佛羅倫斯的一個噴泉,位於領主廣場,舊宮前面。 這是巴托洛米奧·阿曼納蒂及其助手,例如詹波隆那的作品,1565年在弗朗切斯科一世·德·美第奇和奧地利的約翰娜舉行婚禮之際下令修建。最初任務指派給了Baccio Bandinelli,他設計了模型,但是在開始雕刻之前就去世了。 海神噴泉是舊宮西側的一處噴水池,創作於1563—1575年,是阿曼那提(Ammanati)受柯西摩一世之聘所作。這座噴泉的建立除了慶祝柯西摩之子法 蘭西斯科與奧地利的瓊安娜婚禮,也是為了彰顯柯西摩一世的海軍成就,因而採用海神為題材,亦將海神的臉做成柯西摩一世的模樣,站在八角形噴泉池中央,傲視 四方。環繞在四周的小海神與森林之神是後人添加所作。


Title: Fountain of Neptune Artist: Bartolomeo Ammannati Location: Piazza della Signoria Florence, Italy.


Medium: Apuan marble


Date: 1575


Design: The fountain was commissioned to built in honor of the marriage of the second Grand Duke of Tuscany Francesco I De’ Medici to the Grand Duchess Johanna of Austria.


The assignment of creating the fountain was given one of the most famous Renaissance sculptors at the time, Bartolommeo Bandinelli, but shortly after he had finished a model of the fountain died. The job of creating the fountain was quickly given to the sculptor Bartolomeo Ammannati, a student of Michelangelo, and his personal assistant Giambologna.The 4.2-meter fountain was carved from specially chosen Apuan marble.


In the main statue of the fountain Neptune is shown standing high on the octagonal base of the fountain fountain. The artists chose to represent the face of Neptune as a great figure from the history of Florence. Neptune’s face was carved to resemble Cosimo De’ Medici, one of the first dukes of Tuscany, who had always envisioned a monument to the roman god of the sea in the center of Florence. During his reign, Cosimo De’ Medici had great ambitions for turning Florence into a naval super power in the world


.


The pedestal (基座,底座) of the fountain is decorated with the mythical figures of Scylla and Charybdis, two Greek sea monsters. The bronze statues which decorate the fountain are the work of Flemish artist, Jean de Boulogne. The fountain features bronze figures of river gods, smiling satyrs, marble sea horses emerging from the water and a giant sea shell. Story the fountain represents:


The Fountain of Neptune in Florence represents several stories from both Greek and Roman mythology. The main figure in the fountain is Neptune the god of the sea in Roman mythology. Stories of Neptune closely resemble the stories of Poseidon (波賽頓(古希臘語:Ποσειδών),又譯波赛顿、尼普顿、波色伊东,是希腊神话中的海神,宙斯的哥哥。)in Greek mythology. Neptune is the brother of Pluto and Jupiter and together the three rule over the world divided into three major areas, Heaven, Earth and the Netherigions Neptune was associated with horses because they were thought to pull his chariot. Thus, Neptune was also the considered the god of horse racing.


Story of the fountain: Over its history the fountain has had a rather interesting life full of vandalism and abuse. Being that it is located in one of the busiest piazzas in Florence the fountain has received more than its fair share of damage from the people. The fountain was not appreciated by the people of Florence at first and so the basin of the fountain was used to wash clothes for many years. This mistreatment caused a lot of damage to the marble of the fountain.



On 25th January 1580 the first recorded vandalism ( 恣意毀壞他人財產罪, (對好事物的)糟蹋。) of the statue occurred. All the decorations, except the four bronze figures and their satyrs, were badly damaged or destroyed. Then In 1830 during a carnival a group of masked men stole a bronze satyr (薩特(古希臘文學作品中半人半山羊的神))which was later replaced by another which was sculpted by Giovanni Pazzi.


The fountain was damaged by Bourbon bombardments in 1848 and in 1981 the front hooves of one of Neptune’s chariot pulling horses were snapped off. Then 1986 and 1989 the hooves of the horses were once again broken off after being repaired. Several years later a young boy climbed the Fountain of Neptune one early morning and managed to break off Neptune’s right hand and his trident. All was caught on security cameras. This action resulted in 30 pieces Neptune and shell needing to be restored.


Finally, in 2005 vandals once again scaled the 4. 2 metre statue breaking off the hand and trident. After hearing all the damage the fountain has sustained over the years it may help to know that the statue of Neptune is a copy of the original and was made in the 19th century. The original is safe and sound inside the National Museum.


Florence, Italy Uffizi Museum 烏菲茲美術館(Galleria degli Uffizi)


 


烏菲茲美術館歷史介紹


 


烏菲茲美術館(Uffizi)在義大利文裡是『辦公室』的意思,16世紀後半梅迪奇家族的科西摩一世找了御用建築師打造Uffizi宮,作為佛羅倫斯政府綜合辦公大樓,後來梅迪奇家族後代Francesso I 請建築師整修宮殿最上層作為藝術品收藏展覽室,加上後繼梅迪奇家族熱衷於藝術品,所以大公爵們不斷地收購,使得文藝復興時期最重要的作品均集中於此,所以烏菲茲美術館可以說是梅迪奇家族當時私家收藏的地方。


來到佛羅倫斯,烏菲茲美術館肯定是許多藝術愛好者必定要來朝聖的地方。這裡的收藏與文藝復興時期佛羅倫斯的梅迪奇家族有密切關係,無論是繪畫、雕刻、古文物或家具、器物,幾乎都來自於梅迪奇家族的收藏。儘管在超過100個展間裡已經有著大量的藝術品,但受限於空間條件,目前烏菲茲美術館的收藏以繪畫為主,雕刻、工藝品、寶石首飾則分散至佛羅倫斯的其他美術館中。


 


後來1737年梅迪奇家族最後一位後裔–Anna Maria Ludovica認為收藏品不能離開佛羅倫斯,於是將收藏品捐給佛羅倫斯政府,造福於民,於1765年正式對外開放,才有今日的烏菲茲美術館。


Uffizi Gallery, Italian Galleria degli Uffizi, art museum in Florence that has the world’s finest collection of Italian Renaissance painting, particularly of the Florentine school. It also has antiques, sculpture, and more than 100,000 drawings and prints.


In 1559 the grand duke of Tuscany, Cosimo I de’ Medici, engaged the painter-architect Giorgio Vasari to plan a building for the offices (uffizi) of the government judiciary. The Uffizi Palace (1560–80), one of the most important examples of Italian Mannerist architecture, has been subsequently enlarged and remodeled, but always in keeping with Vasari’s original design. After Cosimo I died in 1574, the new grand duke, Francis I, commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to convert the top floor of the Uffizi into a repository for the art treasures amassed by the Medici family from the time of Cosimo the Elder (1389–1464) on. These galleries were expanded in the 17th century by the grand duke Ferdinand II and his brother, Cardinal Leopoldo, who collected the artist self-portraits later exhibited in the Vasari corridor connecting the Uffizi and the Pitti Palace. In the 18th century the Medici’s personal property was bequeathed to the Lorraine family with a pact providing that the works of art should always remain in Florence. It was the grand duke Leopold I who gave the Uffizi its status as a museum in the 18th century. He had its collections reorganized, appointed its first director (1769), and opened it to the public.


 


 


地址:Piazza degli Uffizi 6


電話:055-2388651


開放時間:(二)~(日)08:15~18:50


休館時間:週一、1/1、5/1、12/25


票價:全票8歐、半票4歐(特展期間全票12.5歐、半票6.25歐)、不可重複入場


網址:http://www.uffizi.com/


參觀時間:預計2~3小時


備註:內部可以拍照



佛羅倫斯_烏菲茲美術館(10件必看作品推薦)

烏菲茲美術館這麼有名,那在這裡又有哪些作品是不能錯過的呢?我認為以下10件是絕對不可錯過的作品:


1 喬托 莊嚴的聖母
喬托是文藝復興之前的畫家,大約活躍於13世紀下半葉至14世紀初,他最有名的作品是位於帕多瓦(Padova)的史克羅維尼教堂(Scrovegni Chaple)中的壁畫。
在文藝復興之前由於透視法尚未發明,因此早期繪畫中的空間較為扁平。聖母與聖子這樣的主題,在宗教畫中很常出現。喬托這件《莊嚴的聖母》,圖面下方有兩個天使手持花瓶,天使身邊的兩位信徒分別拿著皇冠與餐盒,除了以此象徵信徒對宗教的熱情,布局上也增加了空間的深度感。



喬托 莊嚴的聖母

2 馬蒂尼 天使報喜
馬蒂尼是西恩納畫派的藝術家,西恩納(Siena)位於佛羅倫斯的南方,是托斯卡尼區其中一個重要城市。西恩納畫派的風格受到拜占庭藝術的影響,除了帶有平面性質與具有裝飾性,同時也更加纖細與注重質地表現,貼近繪畫仔細地觀察,常常能看到創作者在畫面中精心處理各個細節,效果令人驚嘆。
馬蒂尼的《天使報喜》,描繪的是大天使加百列到來,告知聖母將孕育聖胎的消息。左方天使的披風仍飄在半空中,彷彿加百列才剛從天空降落,而聖母的身體微微彎曲,顯然是被眼前的情景嚇了一跳。馬蒂尼透過中間放著百合花的花瓶,區分了加百列與聖母的空間,畫面中央還可以看到突出的字體,文字從加百列的口中向聖母的方向傳遞,「蒙大恩的女子,我向你問好。」畫面生動而典雅。



馬蒂尼 天使報喜 

3 烏切洛 聖羅馬洛城之戰
15世紀時幾何學和透視法的出現,使得繪畫出現了很大的變革。藝術家烏切洛正是一位非常熱衷於研究透視法的藝術家。《聖羅馬洛城之戰》描繪的是佛羅倫斯與鄰近城邦的一場戰鬥,雖然畫的是動態的戰鬥場面,但烏切洛筆下的人物卻有玩具般的樣貌,觀眾彷彿可以看到畫中所有的人物都朝向特定的方向縮短,這是因為烏切洛將繪畫的重點擺在以透視法呈現畫面的緣故。
有個有趣的小故事是,烏切洛對透視法相當熱衷,常為了畫畫廢寢忘食,據說有次太太看不下去要他早點休息,烏切洛不僅充耳不聞,還開心地大喊說:「透視法真是神奇、透視學是位多麼可愛的情人啊!」



烏切洛 聖羅馬洛城之戰 

4 波提且利
若說波提且利是烏菲茲美術館的鎮館藝術家應該不會太誇張的,至少在波提且利的展間始終相當擁擠,想要好好地看作品,還真是得等上不少時間。
《春》的場景是在一個優雅而安靜的樹林中,位於畫面中央的是維納斯,上方有著正在拉弓準備射箭的愛神邱比特。在維納斯的右手邊有三位女神,分別象徵「華美」、「貞淑」與「歡悅」,三人牽著手跳舞,意味著替人間帶來歡樂。畫面的右邊則是季節女神弗羅娜﹝Flora﹞,後方跟著春神莎菲爾和風神。畫面最左邊的是神的使者墨丘利,他正揮舞神杖驅散象徵冬天的陰霾。在這件作品中,波提且利構築了一個充滿生命氣息的場景,以象徵性的繪畫形式,如詩人歌頌豐美的手法來描寫對美好生活的嚮往。




波提且利

5 波提且利 維納斯的誕生
《維納斯的誕生》應該是除了《蒙娜麗莎的微笑》之外,另一件最廣為人知的文藝復興時期作品。根據希臘神話,維納斯是誕生於賽普勒斯島海上的泡沫,她被西風吹拂後上岸,由季節女神弗羅娜為她披上衣裳再送至諸神面前。在這件作品中,波提且利畫的就是剛誕生的維納斯,她站在貝殼上從海中升起,一旁的風神伴隨著飄在空中的花朵,對著維納斯吹了口氣,畫面右邊則是準備為維納斯披上衣服的弗羅娜。



波提且利 維納斯的誕生

6 達文西 天使報喜
這件作品曾一度被認為是達文西的老師吉蘭達奧的作品,直到1869年經考證才確認是達文西年輕時的畫作。作品中可以看到對稱式的構圖手法,以及達文西在遠近法上的掌握,畫面中景的矮牆將前後景分開來;聖母使用的台座為當時佛羅倫斯常見的樣式。如同《維納斯的誕生》中維納斯的脖子長度極不自然,這件作品中聖母的手指也與真實中人的手指長度不同,據說,這是因為畫家想要讓聖母的手碰觸到書本的緣故,最後只好犧牲正確的比例以達成目的。Leonardo_da_Vinci-1024x464[1].jpg - crafts 藝術製作


達文西 天使報喜

7 拉斐爾 教皇李奧十世與兩位紅衣主教
這件作品可以看到拉斐爾在細節上的精細處理,比如教皇身上衣料皮毛的細膩表現,以及來自於右方的光線是如何地映照在人物的臉上與身上,放在桌上的書本與搖鈴也同樣精緻。值得一提的是,由於畫中另外兩位紅衣主教的風格與教皇明顯不同,因此也有研究者認為兩位的紅衣主教不是拉斐爾所畫。




拉斐爾 教皇李奧十世與兩位紅衣主教

8 提香 烏爾比諾的維納斯
提香是義大利文藝復興時期威尼斯知名的藝術家,他的畫風以甜美著稱,高明的技巧將油畫的色彩、造形和筆觸的運用帶到另一個境界。《烏爾比諾的維納斯》這件作品描繪一位橫躺的裸體女性,在她的後方有著一塊大面積的黑布,這不只遮住了後方的空間,同時也迫使觀者的目光集中在前景的女體。印象派前期的法國畫家馬內就受到這件作品的啟發,畫下《奧林匹亞》,不過,《奧林匹亞》在當時備受批評,但這又是另一個故事了。




提香 烏爾比諾的維納斯

9 巴米加尼諾 長頸聖母
巴米加尼諾的《長頸聖母》是典型矯飾主義風格的作品,矯飾主義風格包括了常會將人體或動物拉長,或特別強調動態,畫面也顯得擁擠而不平衡,主要是藉由這樣誇張的手法來製造出具有戲劇畫的場景以及強而有力的影像。《長頸聖母》中,可以看到聖母的脖子、手指,與聖嬰的肢體都以誇張與不正常的比例被拉長,左方不多的空間卻擠了好幾個人,為的是強調熱鬧歡愉的場景。畫面的背景明顯未完成,這是因為巴米加尼諾畫到一半就過世了。



巴米加尼諾 長頸聖母

10 簡提列絲基 茱蒂絲割下赫羅菲尼斯的頭顱
簡提列絲基是義大利巴洛克時期的畫家,由於他的父親的繪畫受到卡拉瓦喬的畫風影響很深,因此簡提列絲基自然也追隨了卡拉瓦喬的畫風。受到年輕時曾被老師強暴的影響,這樣的心理創傷,使得簡提列絲基的繪畫有不少以女性復仇為主題的作品,在《茱蒂絲割下赫羅菲尼斯的頭顱》一作品則特別明顯。畫面的重心聚焦在茱蒂絲拿著劍與揪著赫羅菲尼斯頭髮的雙手這一區,場景則是她正在割頭的那一刻,畫面生動描繪鮮血從赫羅菲尼斯的頸部噴灑而出的樣子,在戲劇性光源的襯托下,顯得張力十足而又暴力得駭人。




簡提列絲基 茱蒂絲割下赫羅菲尼斯的頭顱



 


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