2019年7月1日(一)佛羅倫斯(Florence (英)) 前序:佛羅倫斯(義大利語:Firenze,拉丁語:Florentia,義大利詩歌:Fiorenza),在19世紀的中國或者現代文學、藝術、餐飲的場合也常按義大利語發音翻譯成翡冷翠。是義大利中部托斯卡納大區和佛羅倫斯省的首府,擁有366,091名城市人口,是該地區面積最大、人口最多的城市,以及主要的歷史、文化和商業中心。 佛羅倫斯(Florence),在詩人徐志摩的詩集「翡冷翠的一夜」中將這個都市翻譯了一個詩情畫意、更貼切義大利語「Firenze」的名字-翡冷翠。
聖母百花教堂、烏菲茲美術館、學院美術館,老橋,這裡處處充滿了文藝復興的建築與畫作,以及滿滿的文藝復興氛圍。
如果你是4~10月的旺季去佛羅倫斯,基本上百花大教堂、烏菲茲美術館、學院美術館等等比較知名的景點都會排隊至少30分鐘以上,進去後參觀的品質我就不多解釋哈哈哈哈哈哈你想一下跨年的感覺,真的很可怕!!!!建議你事先預約參觀或是直接購買Firenze Card就能夠快速進入這樣,下面會介紹Firence Card是什麼。不過我11月中去,除了百花大教堂之外的景點都不需要排隊,參觀無礙。
青年旅館不多:其實義大利是一個住宿很貴、難訂、青年旅館又很少的國家,我曾經納悶為甚麼一個旅遊觀光業如此蓬勃發展的地方在住宿上卻這麼不友善自由行客人,但真正原因以後有機會我再寫專文探討,反正佛羅倫斯又是個極度荒唐幾乎沒有什麼背包客棧的地方就對了,單身旅行者要有花錢住民宿或Airbnb的心理準備。青旅幾乎半年前就會被訂光光。
1.「一定」要去「聖母百花大教堂」(Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore)
2.「一定」要去「學院美術館」( Galleria dell' Accademia di Firenze)看大衛的裸體
3.「一定」要去「烏菲茲美術館」(Galleria degli Uffizi)欣賞波提切利(Sandro Botticelli)「維納斯的誕生」
4.「一定」要去「米開朗琪羅廣場」( Piazzale Michelangelo)欣賞佛羅倫斯的夜景
5.「一定」要去吃「Trattoria Zà Zà」的丁骨牛排和中央市場「Da Nerbone」的豬肚包。 聖母百花大教堂、鐘樓(Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore) 距離佛羅倫斯火車站約10分鐘步行路程、距中央市場步行約五分鐘的聖母百花大教堂屬於哥德式風格的主教教堂,聖母百花大教堂的特色在於其外部使用色調深淺不同的白、綠和粉紅多色的大理石塊所鋪砌而成,色彩斑斕而和諧。
聖母百花大教堂是文藝復興時期第一座偉大建築,1295年由阿爾諾沃·迪卡姆比奧在原先的佛羅蒂諾大教堂的基址上興建,1469年才最後完工。這裏曾經是佛羅倫薩共和國宗教的中心。它是一座由白色,粉紅,綠色的大理石按幾何圖案裝飾起來的美麗的大教堂。
聖母百花大教堂最誘人的就是它那紅色的大圓頂,大圓頂是繼羅馬萬神廟之後的又一大圓頂,是菲利浦·布魯內萊斯基的傑作,設計並建造於1420年到1434年間,這位巨匠在完成這一空中巨構的過程中沒有藉助於拱架,而是用了一種新穎的相連的魚骨結構和以椽固瓦的方法從下往上逐次砌成。圓頂呈雙層薄殼形,雙層之間留有空隙,上端略呈尖形,高91米,最大直徑45.52米。 整個教堂建築群由主教大教堂、聖若望洗禮堂和喬托鐘樓構成,被列入聯合國教科文組織的世界遺產佛羅倫斯歷史中心。
聖若望洗禮堂是目前佛羅倫斯最古老的建築之一,若想拍經典的大教堂圓頂,就要爬上414階的鐘樓,另外也有不少人會選擇挑戰需爬463階大教堂圓頂,爬圓頂有限制人數,若待的時間不多,建議提早預訂,否則當天的若人數滿了只能隔天再來,主教大教堂則可免費參觀。
聖母百花大教堂、鐘樓資訊: 地址: Piazza del Duomo, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy 交通方式:從佛羅倫斯火車站步行十分鐘即可抵達。
開放時間: 主教堂:10:00-17:00,不需門票。
Dome大教堂圓頂:8:30-17:00,沒有電梯,需爬463階,可免費預約。
Giotto’s Bell Tower鐘樓:08:15-19:00,沒有電梯,需爬414階。
Crypt地穴:10:00-17:00。
Baptistry聖若望洗禮堂:8:15-10:15 / 11:15-19:30
Museum主教教堂博物館:9:00-19:00
門票:包含以上所有建築之入場套票為18歐,若僅參觀主教堂則不需購票。 現場排隊購票的人很多,建議預先網路購票,並在購票時直接預訂登百花大圓頂的票,完成購票後需將票列印出來,否則會無法入場。 從入場的第一個景點開始起算72小時內的門票有效,但每一個點僅能出入一次。 每月第一個周二為公休日。
聖若望洗禮堂 Battistero di San Giovanni (上)
對面就是洗禮堂,以前洗禮堂跟大教堂的高度是不一樣的,中間有個樓梯,這個洗禮堂比大教堂還早完成,也是教堂群體中最重要的一部份也是佛羅倫斯最古老的建築之一(推算在十世紀的時候完成的),因為古時候的人沒有經過洗禮是不能進入教堂的。
Florence's cathedral stands tall over the city with its magnificent Renaissance dome designed by Filippo Brunelleschi, with the baptistery right across. The cathedral named in honor of Santa Maria del Fiore is a vast Gothic structure built on the site of the 7th century church of Santa Reparata, the remains of which can be seen in the crypt.
The cathedral was begun at the end of the 13th century by Arnolfo di Cambio, and the dome, which dominates the exterior, was added in the 15th century on a design of Filippo Brunelleschi. A statue to each of these important architects can be found outside to the right of the cathedral, both admiring their work for the rest of eternity. Can you imagine it took two centuries for the cathedral to be deemed finished?
Did you know?
Florence's cathedral is the 4th largest in the world, after St. Peter's in Rome, St. Paul's in London and the Duomo in Milan.
The church was consecrated as soon as the dome was in place although the façade (front of the church) was only half finished by then. It was considered just a decoration, and thus remained unfinished up until the 19th century. At that point, it was actually redone by the likes of the time and finally finished - which is what you see today, in the top photo.
The exterior is covered in a decorative mix of pink, white and green marble. The interior, by contrast, is pretty stark and plain but quite enjoyable on warm summer days since the temperature inside tends to be cooler. The mosaic pavements are certainly its main attraction within, which you can see in the photo above, aren't they spectacular? They look like mosaic carpets.
Please note the clock above the entrance on the inside of the church. It was designed in 1443 by Paolo Uccello in accordance with the ora italica, where the 24th hour of the day ended at sunset... and it still works!
The biggest artwork within the cathedral is Giorgio Vasari's frescoes of the Last Judgment (1572-9): they were designed by Vasari but painted mostly by his less-talented student Frederico Zuccari by 1579.
You should also pay attention to the 3 frescoes alongside the left nave of the cathedral: Dante Before the City of Florence by Domenico di Michelino (1465) which is especially interesting because it shows us, apart from scenes of the Divine Comedy, a view on Florence in 1465, a Florence such as Dante himself could not have seen in his time; the Funerary Monument to Sir John Hawkwood by Paolo Uccello (1436, the one on the left below) and the Equestrian statue of Niccolò da Tolentino by Andrea del Castagno (1456, the one on the right). Both frescoes portray the condottieri as heroic figures riding triumphantly. Both painters had problems when applying in painting the new rules of perspective to foreshortening: they used two unifying points, one for the horse and one for the pedestal, instead a single unifying point.
Visiting the cathedral: do you need tickets for Duomo or is it free?
No, entrance is free! You do have to buy the single "Grande Museo del Duomo" pass to visit the other monuments in Piazza del Duomo (climb up the Dome and the bell tower, the Baptistery and the museum).
For this reason, you'll at times find a long line to get in into the cathedral. Don't worry, the line moves pretty quickly! But in an effort to reduce the line, the cathedral administration is trying to increase the number of visitors allowed at any one time into the church as long as noise level remains low. The solution has been to require any group of over 4 visitors to rent either the radio or audio guides (cost is 2-2,50 euro per person) so that the level of noise inside the church remains low and larger amounts of people can be allowed inside at any one time. Large groups of students will receive 50% discount on the cost of the audio guide. If you're with a tour group, you'll likely already have the earphones and don't have to worry about this recent change.