香港有獅子山,斯里蘭卡有獅子岩。😃( Sigiriya Rock- UNESCO world heritage site ):獅子岩在 1982 年被聯合國教科文組織列入世界遺產,也被譽為南亞的馬丘比丘,更素有斯里蘭卡的「空中宮殿」之稱。😍🥰😘😗

• 主要特色:

o 岩石本身:高約200米,遠看像一隻巨大的獅子,現只剩獅身。

o 宮殿遺址:山頂有宮殿遺址、國王寶座、水池等。

o 錫吉里耶壁畫:懸崖岩洞中的「仕女圖」是斯里蘭卡唯一的非宗教壁畫,色彩鮮豔。

o 鏡子牆 (Mirror Wall):牆上刻有千年來遊客的讚美詩。

• 世界遺產:1982年被列入聯合國教科文組織世界文化遺產名錄。


獅子岩改朝換代:空中宮殿中的王子復仇記


考古學家認為獅子岩從公元 3 世紀開始已是佛教重地,因為在斯里蘭卡人眼中,平地上突出的山脈與岩石都是神聖的。直至公元 5 世紀,獅子岩見證摩利耶王朝的獨特歷史。當時的王子卡薩帕 ( Kashyapa )因母親的平民身分而無法繼承王位、便弒父奪位。🥲


登上「獅子岩」頂途,會路過繪有 21 位仙女( Apsaras )的古代壁畫( Frescoes ),形態婀娜多姿、栩栩如生。有學者認為那裡本來有多達五百幅女像,若真如此便足可跟風格相似、位於印度的阿旃陀( Ajanta )石窟壁畫平分秋色。

園藝成就的象徵

在獅子岩的不同位置,你可以發現精心設計的花園和水池,這說明了斯 蘭卡 代文明對於園藝和水力工程的高超掌握。

石雕手法打出緻水 池,特別是在岩石的縫隙中雕琢出來的開放式水路。

這些水池系統曾經是皇家的奢華享受,也是當時工程設計的巔峰之作。

進入空中宮殿之前,首先要通過遺址外的護城河,來到「獅子岩」下的水庭園( Water Gardens )遺址。通過護城河進入林木、綠地、水池構成的水花園廣場,可看到二旁是散落其間的夏季宮殿遺跡。

水花園展現出高超的集水系統與水流動力學的科技。

水庭園內有數個水池,可仰望獅子岩及岩壁上的參觀步道。接著走往巨礫庭園( Boulder Gardens ),尋找那裡一塊因頂部形似響尾蛇的巨石而得名 Cobra Hood Cave 以及其他古時僧人修行的洞穴。

精心規劃的水道與噴泉, 不但供應了這個城市園藝與農業的灌溉需求, 也提供觀賞與娛樂的功能; 並且在炎夏中還擔負著冷卻皇宮與消暑的作用。最後這些水匯集在最低處的城外護城河與城市南側的人工蓄水池。

回程時會路過如梯田般建立的平台庭園( Terraced Gardens )。


導遊地震(綽號)在車上時,告訴我們在獅子岩的道路上,會有持牌導遊主動跑來接待我們的,他說他們會協助我們(但沒有明確說出協助什麼。)後來,他說如果需要他們的協助的話,一般$20美元;如果不需要的,就直接告訴他們不需要了。😃😄😄😄

其實所謂助理導遊,相當於地陪,但主力並非講解風景,當然在登山途中如有分岔路,他們會告訴旅客正確的道路,但他們的主要工作還是扶持旅客上落山,及/或協助他們提拿財物。
今天全日瘋狂地下著,到了水花園與獅子岩時就一直下著滂沱大雨。🌧️🌧️🌧️🌧️🌧️🌧️

由水庭院至獅爪,只是整個獅子岩2/3的路程而已。😅😂🤣而我平時在香港外出,只要是跨區的,我必攜帶拐杖椅,這樣可以交通工具在沒有座位時,也可以坐下。 至於我完成了獅子岩的登山旅程嗎?。😁😄🥰😗😙

南亞之中,除了印度齋浦爾的琥珀堡(Amer Fort)、城市皇宮和「姜塔曼塔」( Jantar-Mantar )阿格拉的泰姬陵外,尼泊爾也有不少名勝古跡,不過可惜的是,很多的建築在20154月地震時已經震爛了。如今有幸到斯里蘭卡,而她又是文明古國之一,怎會不想登山飽覽獅子岩呢?

結果我在爭扎下,下定決心盡力行,既然一生人沒有多少回到斯里蘭卡,就是重遊,也不知多少年後才會重遊了。所以我下定決心非要登上山頂,即有皇室遺址,包括水池的位置不可。

當然,此時已甚為疲倦,加上雨還是瘋狂地下著,真的忐忑不安。上山,自己的體力和天氣極度惡劣下,真的容許我輕鬆自如地上嗎?一個平日借助 stick步行的人,會比兩隻腳步行的人走得更佳?

就在此時,已有好幾位導遊助理主動而積極地向著我們奔跑過來,一個替我拿袋,一個扶持我,我固然感到加力了。沿途給我打傘,笑容可掬,言談中他們得知我們服務十分週到且殷勤。

令人擔心的是,這數位導遊助理只穿人字拖鞋,要算平時天朗氣清,登山穿也很危險;何況是日下的雨量相當於香港的紅雨,甚至黑雨,肯定更加危險了。可是,唯一的好處就是腳掌不會被濕漉漉的鞋襪封著。

大約步行至台階花園(Terrance Garden 入口,我卒之作出了一個決定,就是當抵達獅爪時,不再繼續登上頂峰了,當時的心情很矛盾,我不能堅持下去,但就在此時,認識了數位團友,其中一位就是寶姐了。

寶姐是個健談之人,得知她的足跡遍天下,就連中亞的高加索也到過。她甚至這信團還沒有曲終人散,便積極考慮某旅行社舉辦的越南旅行團,並表示很廉宜。之後我們互相替對方拍照,又或合照,氣氛和睦。當然也認識了其他團友。

最後決定繼續完成餘下13旅程的團友不到10位,而我和其他團友則此時要折返水花園旁邊的旅遊車了。

導遊助理沿途依然照顧有加,身體雖已疲憊不堪,但在他的支援下完成獅子岩旅程。他們實在是貴人,縱然是收取小費的,但仍感受到他們的真誠。

註:他們接受港元,最後他致電給我的導遊地震,含蓄地表示$200港元較合理。是的,辛苦錢,他們的真誠而辛勞的付出,我付出得義無反顧。

不是阿Q式的吃不到的葡萄是酸的,而且我們下山時,已是傍晚6時了,加上日滂沱大雨,就算能攀升至頂,也是黑漆漆一片,根本無可能看清楚那個宏偉的露天皇宮。不去,損失只是些微而已,開心些吧!


一些反思:以奇峰秀水聞名的湖南張家界市,在武陵源風景區之中,國際知名的地標之一,就是高達326公尺、世界最高戶外電梯的「百龍天梯」。這座電梯的架設直接咬住砂岩山峰,三台玻璃景窗的戶外結構,每台電梯一次可以承載47人、運行速度達每秒3公尺,號稱全世界最快、高度最高的戶外電梯。

獅子岩路途遙遠,而且山路久崎嶇和有沙石,遇上天雨時非常濕滑,如果他們也建築百龍天梯的話,會否對錫吉里耶的旅遊業錦上添花呢?首先,這一定需要投入龐大的金錢,而斯里蘭卡目前是破產國,建築通天升降機(即著名的戶外觀光電梯)的總造價約為1.2億至1.8億元人民幣。是故,無論是技術還是資金,以一個發展中國家來說是困難的。

此外,有人會說,若然建築了天梯,那些導遊助理肯定登時失業了。是的,短期來說,的確有一批導遊助理失業。

不過愚以為社會和個人均必須進步的。假設,我說是假設,斯里蘭卡有了一筆巨額金錢,首先要做的就是培育人才,特別是各種旅遊課程、語文等,然後添置配套,包括一切旅遊配套如天梯,以及電瓶車,這樣會吸引更多來自五湖四海的健全及老弱傷殘旅客,旅遊收益一定比沒有任何配套時,呈幾何級數的增加。

至於導遊助理失業的問題?其實只要各式各樣的配套做得好,國家收入增多,人才濟濟,昔日充當導遊助理(說白些,其工種相類於苦力),「升呢」為正式的導遊,或其他更具技能性甚至專業領域的工作,國家就愈來愈昌盛繁榮,形成一個良性的循環 (virtuous circle)。否則,國家永遠是欠債累累的國家,很多人民仍然是低技術的人民。

當然,在地球村裡,已發展國家應抱著協助的心態,多以資金和技術支援,但不宜乘人之危,例如借多少多少給你,然後要求你給他開放軍事港口,讓他駐軍等。真正的助人,是令別人的生活有所改善,而不是懷鬼胎,令自己雄霸天下。

圖/法新社:百龍天梯


台階花園 Te r r a n c e G a r d e n 入口。

壯麗的石雕入口

獅子岩的入口設計如同一個巨大的獅子,並於公元五世紀建成。在古時,這座獅子雕像的口部為通往岩頂宮殿的唯一通道。(下)



從高空拍攝的獅子岩

古老的水池和園藝藝術

獅子岩頂部的宮殿曾設有複雜的水池系統,這些水池不只是藝術的展現,還象徵著斯里蘭卡古代水力技術的結晶。

以下英文版本文字及圖片,由 Sri Lanka, Rohan Gunaratna提供:

SIGIRIYA

THE BATTLE OF SIGIRIYA

The story of the rock of Sigiriya is indissolubly linked to the tragic story of Kassapa and Moggallana, children of the same father, the King of Anuradhapura Dhatusena, but with different moth-

ers. Moggallana's mother was in fact of royal blood.

Although he was the elder, fearing that his step-brother would seize power, Kassapa took over the throne and imprisoned his father, while Moggallana succeeded in fleeing to India. After this, Kassapa or-

dered his father to reveal to him where the Crown treasure was hidden: the latter took him to the big Kalawewa dam which he himself had built and which he considered his most important work, and said to him: "This is where all my treasure is".

Hearing this reply and feeling that he was being made fun of, Kassapa had his father immured.

In 495 the usurper king descended from the rock of Sigiriya in order to go and meet Moggallana who, strengthened by the support of the Chola and Sinhalese troops, had returned from India to engage his step-brother in battle on the plain surrounding Habarana. It was here that occurred the episode that decided the outcome of the battle: the elephant ridden by Kassapa scented the danger of a hidden bog and suddenly changed direction. Kassapa's army interpreted this action as a signal to retreat and dispersed, leaving the King alone. The King drew his dagger and cut his own throat.

The citadel of Sigiriya, founded 1,500 years ago by the parricide king Kassapa (447-495 A.D.), is one of the most remarkable creations in the world. The king transformed a 600-foot rock into an impregnable fortress, either to emulate Kuwera, the lord of wealth who resided upon Mount Alaka, or to counter the fear of a South Indian assisted army led by his brother Moggallana, the rightful heir to the

throne, or both. Even though Sigiriya was inhabited before and after Kassapa, mostly by forest-dwelling monks, its surviving art and architecture are largely secular. Sigiriya was rediscovered after the rock was scaled by two Britishers in 1853, and since the mid 1900's the citadel has attracted millions of visitors from all around the world. Today, Sigiriya offers her visitors a gallery of 5th-century paintings coupled with landscaped gardens unrivalled and unmatched by any contemporary citadel in the world.



Paintings of 23 damsels, mostly in pairs and usually consisting of a lady and her maid, are found halfway up the rock. The maidens in the Sigiri murals have long been admired by both the art connoisseur and the average traveller. The graffiti in-scribed on the mirror wall records the emotions of visitors touched by the beauty of Sigiriya. The beautiful maidens have received several interpretations.

Based on Mahawansa, the national chronicle, as well as on other interpretations, the maidens in the Sigiri murals have been identified as the ladies in the court of Kassapa. They included his queens, daughters, maid servants and even concubines. The golden figures are shown in various profiles, some delicately holding a flower, others opening its petals or carrying a tray of flowers. Several hold their poses with eductive glances, turned-up lips, dropping shoulders, heavy bosoms, slender waists and arms. Their coiffures and detailed jewellery, clothes and make-up, not to mention their unsurpassing grace and beauty, immortalized by the Sigiri artists, continue to inspire generations of writers and poets.

The maids, wearing transparent blouses, are darker in complexion than the bare-breasted royalty. Both categories are serene, gentle and cordial in their gestures. While their broad and tilted hips contrast with their narrow and taut waists, their full, rounded breasts bring out the most expressive feminine graces, features hitherto unexpressed in ancient classical art. Interpretations are numerous and poetic: the maidens are in the clouds, some gracefully gliding away towards the adjacent rock at Pidurangala to worship at the recumbent Buddha image, while others are waiting to greet the god King Kassapa.


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